Getting into the realm of stones and gemstones is a huge subject so I decided to take just one part of it at a time. So, today, let’s look at round stones. By identifying the cut, it can provide some useful information for dating and for determining value.
The simplest stone is the Chaton. It is an 8 sided faceted stone with a flat table and a pointed pavillion. If you look closely at any of your rhinestone jewelry that has round stones, almost all of them will use the Chaton stone.
Chaton stones came in literally every color including those used with the Aurora Borealis coating. They are the most common stone for vintage jewelry.
As you study your piece what makes a Chaton stone stand out a bit is whether it is glued in or prong set. Being prong set automatically sets it in a higher category than glued in. It is much more time intensive. The higher end lines almost always prong set their stones, regardless of size.
A step up from the Chaton is the Dentelle Stone. The name is french meaning ‘lace’. Notice that unlike the Chaton, it has two rows of facets above the girdle.
In this particular drawing, the stone has 32 facets. 24 are above the girdle and 8 are below it. The Dentelle stone is also cut with 64 facets.
Because of the additional facets to the stone, Dentelle stones do provide more reflection and refraction thereby giving the stone much more sparkle than a Chaton.
When pricing, give a higher consideration to Dentelle stones. Although it is not something I specifically researched but would imagine that most of these stones are prong set.
The Rivoli Stone is easily recognizable. Both sides are pointed. Vintage Rivoli stones were made by Swarovski and began to be used in costume jewelry some time in the mid 1950s.
There really is no table to these stones, just a girdle and main facets on each side. Because of the cut, these stones have a lot fire to them whether they are a single color or bi color.
They are usually foiled on the backside although not always and are usually prong set. Of course there are exceptions to every rule of thumb.
Don’t mix Rivoli stones up with reverse set rhinestones that was sometimes done. Rivoli always has the point on both sides. Each side replicates the other so even the depth of the crowns will be the same.
The Rose Cut is made up of the crown and girdle with no pavillion. The crown is pointed, without a table and the facets are triangles. There are 24 facets to a full cut rose.
These were not known to be high end stones. In fact the Rose Cut was used on the leftovers. Normally these stones are foiled on the backside to improve light refraction and to add more depth and sparkle to the stone.
That being said though, the Rose Cut is old and combine that with the setting, you may discover that you have a piece of jewelry that is quite old.
Don’t just use the cut of the stone as a dating mechanism. Combine the clues of the cut with the setting to determine a date.
Last but certainly not least is the Old Mine Cut. This particular cut was used for diamonds.
It seems to have first appeared in the late 1600s. The cut has been attributed to a Polish jeweler named Vincent Perruzi.
Basically what he did was take an example of an older cut and increased the number of facets.The more facets, the more refraction there is…in other words…there is much more brilliance to the stone.
Later this Old Mine Cut was replaced with the brilliant cut.